A trip out east

[Harters]

Up early-ish and off to Sineu for its market. It’s a funny old event – part touristy, part vital contribution to local society.

The touristy bit is easily covered by the many stalls selling handbags, shoes, cheap jewellery and the like. The “locals” bit covered by stalls selling kitchen hardware and cheap knickers your granny wouldn’t be seen dead in – no fashionistas amongst Sineu’s lemon-suckers. But the thing that distinguishes Sineu from many of the island’s other markets is livestock. This is the place to come to buy a budgie or one of the many other types of cage bird. And even birds not for the cage – this is also the place to come to buy your turkey to fatten up on your huerto for Christmas. Oh, and it’s also the place to come to buy really cute puppies. Really really cute puppies.

And then it was on to Petra for lunch. A quiet and not unattractive town famous only for being the birthplace of the missionary who founded a mission at what became the city of San Francisco. The guy who owned the house we were renting had recommended Es Celler for lunch as being “cocina tipico”. How could two foodies resist? The town is a rabbit warren of small streets but, luckily, the restaurant seemed signposted on every corner. And, indeed, it is in an old wine cellar.

Olives and bread arrived with our drinks – the bread that dense Mallorcan sort that tastes of not very much but is nicely chewy.

A mixed salad starter was simple – lettuce, tomato, onion. Trempo was superb – a simple plate of the freshest, juiciest green pepper, tomato and onion. Both needed nothing more than a good glug of oil, a slosh of vinegar and a sprinkle of salt.

Tumbet provided one main course – big chunks of veggies, the garlic, parsley and oil bringing it all together into a single dish but allowing the individual flavours to show through.

The other main course was roast kid – probably marinated, the meat having a deep savoury taste. Its texture suggested that perhaps it had first been casseroled before being finished off in the oven. And its long cooking time – whatever the method – paid off. The two large chunks of meat, on the bone, sat on a sauté of onion, wild mushroom and carrot – all of which seemed absolutely right. Alongside was a hefty portion of fried potatoes – crisp on the outside, fluffy. I’d like the chef to open a chippy near us – I’d be there often – s/he knows how to fry!

Good “café solo” finished the meal. A beer and bottle of water had been drunk. Service had been spot on. Bill came to just under €38. Great way of spending an hour of your time.

But, with little breeze in the interior and temperatures in the upper 30s, we were glad to make our way back towards the coast and were really looking forward to an hour cooling off in the pool.