TRIP REPORT: Pollenca 31 May to 7 June

[MalcolmS]

Came back from Pollença on Sunday and been meaning to post a trip report but the weather’s been too good to stay inside at the computer. Raining today though.

My wife and I have arguments about the number of times we’ve been to Pollença over the years but it’s certainly now closer to 20 than 10 and we’ve never had a bad trip and only once (!) experienced poor weather (rain). This trip was no exception. This is the earliest we’ve ever been always having visited before between July and October and we did notice everywhere was quite a bit quieter. One night; we we’re the only couple in the restaurant the whole time we were there!

Our easyJet flight this year was scheduled much later arriving at 21:55 and I didn’t fancy any off-site car hire or lengthy queues at the airport so booked a car with Sixt. First time I’ve done so and was very pleased with the experience – although it’s a little bit more expensive. When we arrived, there were huge queues at the likes of Record Go, Goldcar, etc. but I walked straight up to the Sixt desk and had my paperwork in less than 5 minutes – I think I might even have been quicker going straight to their desk in the car park to collect the car. My wife stood and people watched as I got the paperwork sorted and said the queues at Record Go were getting very heated with lots of arguments and queue jumping. I estimated it would have taken an hour had I joined the back of their queue at that time.

That said I want to investigate doing the trip without a car the next time. We once again had a town house in Pollença and only ever used the shops in the town so other than an evening in the port could have done without the car…

The last 3 trips I’ve booked accommodation with Villa Parade. I didn’t this time – not because I’d seen what was coming but because the price had increased slightly so I shopped around. Being in the travel industry (or at least I was) I used to get a 20% discount with VP however this year they reduced that to 15% so I decided to make some comparisons with other companies – quite fortuitous in the end! I eventually booked a lovely town house called Ca La Pradina direct with the owner that I found on Tripadvisor. I’ve written a review of the house which hasn’t been published yet but I’ll leave it to you to check it out. I couldn’t fault it and it had the best outdoor space of the any of the “in the town” properties we’ve rented. It’s on the South side of the town and only five minutes’ walk from the square – very quiet, private and peaceful.

Normally we’d hit the town as soon as we’d dropped the luggage off but we were a bit tired and wanted to make an early start at the market the next day.

We did some shopping at the stalls in the main square and then decided to have a quick coffee in Café L'illa. While there we noticed they were still doing breakfasts and we’ve had some nice scrambled egg on toast there before but having ordered it this time our waiter came back to say we could only have cold food. :-(

As well as the food and drink for lunches at the house during the week we also bought some meat for a BBQ one evening. We came across a butcher we hadn’t noticed before and bought some fantastic steaks. It’s called Tot Carnisseries on Carrer Reinia Maria Cristina. If I’m honest all the butchers we’ve used in Pollença have been great but the added attraction here is one of the assistants (owners?) speaks perfect English – we struggled to believe this but she’s Spanish born and bred but speaks English with a broad Yorkshire accent!

In the afternoon we sought out somewhere to have our ‘traditional’ Sunday afternoon tapas. We really liked La Taberna del Temple in the past but that’s still shut (more later). Last year we tried Dos Hermanas and really liked this but this year it was closed when we walked past. Never managed to work out what this restaurant’s opening hours are. They seem so irregular – so frustrating.

So we ended up around the corner at La Botigueta which I recall as “the paper shop” from previous years. They’ve obviously invested some money in the place and it does look very nice – if not very “old Spanish town” like. It would appear to be part of the company that owns Pizzeria Obris (the old La Penya bar) across the road and Spira down near the museum square. The tapas were okay – just okay. There were quite a few on the menu that were ‘off’ and our albondigas, whilst nice weren’t that hot, temperature wise. All in all I wouldn’t go back.

In the evening we went to, what remains our favourite restaurant in the whole of Pollença – Cantonet. Being regulars we were greeted with hugs and kisses and choose to sit on the terrace – which was the first night they had opened it this season. Despite being well after 8pm we were the first and only people there for a while before being joined by one other family. As always the food was first class, the service perfect and all good value for money.

We actually went back another night during the week when it was much busier. When we were saying our good byes they explained that there was a problem with the use of the terrace and that they may have to move! They are considering taking on La Taberna del Temple so they can get the use of the little courtyard at the back of that restaurant. From memory it’s very nice but smaller than the Monti Sion church terrace.

Monday evening we BBQ’d at the house and then the following evening decided to give Can Costa (without the apostrophe) a go – it having been a favourite of ours in the years gone past. We had a great evening by ourselves (yes, we were the only people in from 8pm until around half 10) in the restaurant and tried the 7 course tasting menu. All of them were very interesting and different but not all worked for us. One of the courses had scallops which unfortunately I’m allergic to but they were more than happy to swap that out and we had a lovely sea bass course instead. The whole bill has around double what we paid at Cantonet but I’d still say it was an enjoyable experience.

I had a really good bottle of wine with the meal at 23€ - a L’u Blanc de Mortitx (100% Malvasias). I tried to repeat this later in the week with a bottle of L’Ergull de Mortitx but it wasn’t as nice – an unusual mix of five grapes (Malvasias / Chardonnay / Riesling / Moscatel / Sauvignon Blanc). I noticed that Can Costa had changed the restaurant around a little bit with more tables and another bar. The entrance hall was stunning – much brighter than off old. Unfortunately fire regulations meant a new wall and doors had to be installed covering up the old glass wall and doors at the top of the stairs.

Wednesday night we BBQ’d again – huge chicken kebabs from Tot Carnisseries again and Thursday we tried La Font del Gall again. I noticed El Brio has now gone and they’ve openly branded both restaurants as LFDG. Again the restaurant was very quiet which gave us time to chat to the waitresses. The food was good but just not in the same class as Cantonet – for instance I had Ravioli de setas in both and Cantonet’s was far tastier. The bill was round 20€ more than Cantonet but then I did have a rather nice fillet steak and the L’Ergull was 26.50€…

Friday was back to Cantonet but we did try one new place for breakfast on Saturday morning before leaving. Not sure how long it’s been there but it looks very new? When we passed it on the way to the Eroski supermarket earlier in the week it was empty but on Saturday morning we could hardly get a table! It’s Panord on Carrer Via Argentina – a great selection of pastries and sandwiches and nice freshly squeezed orange juice and coffees.

We thoroughly enjoyed a great relaxing week in Pollença and will definitely be back – probably not until 2015 now though. Finally, even though the town was reasonably quite, I did notice more police (the blue uniform – Local?) presence this time which was comforting given past experiences.

Hope some of the above helps out future visitors?

[kate1]

Great report, Malcolm! I do agree about Can Costa - I can see what they're trying to do but they aren't quite doing it (if you see what I mean).

Pan Nord has been there for a couple of years now - it's a really excellent cafe and as you say it is always heaving - even in early April it was seriously busy, mostly with locals.

[pescador2009]

Really enjoyed the report, always nice to hear more detail about Pollenca town.

[Sparky]

Excellent report Malcolm thank you for taking the time to post and i agree it's nice to have reviews of the old town restaurants .

[pollensafan]

Re Waitress with Yorkshire accent. I'm intrigued by this. Did she have black hair and be around 40 ?, because if so that could be the sister of anna that runs the Ikebanna . She was married to a guy from leeds for years which is why she speaks English with a Yorkshire accent. Used to make me laugh when she would be talking in Spanish then in the middle of a sentence you would hear " Cheeky monkey " in northern brogue. Of course I might be barking up the wrong tree because the last I heard she was working in a letting agency.

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by pollensafan

Re Waitress with Yorkshire accent. I'm intrigued by this. Did she have black hair and be around 40 ?, because if so that could be the sister of anna that runs the Ikebanna . She was married to a guy from leeds for years which is why she speaks English with a Yorkshire accent. Used to make me laugh when she would be talking in Spanish then in the middle of a sentence you would hear " Cheeky monkey " in northern brogue. Of course I might be barking up the wrong tree because the last I heard she was working in a letting agency.

I think you are talking about Maite if so then it's definitely not her as she is now living in the UK .

[pollensafan]

Hi Sparky, Indeed I was. Spent many a happy evening with her, oops that never came out quite right. I was referring of course to when she used to sing. Oh well, if she's now over here, then that's my theory dead in the water .

[Sparky]

Yes she is a lovely lady, very good singer and she has a great sense of humour .

[pollensafan]

Re Sense of humour, Yes I can vouch for that. When she was working in the Ikebanna , she spilt some wine over the shoulder of my shirt one night when the place was packed. Quick as a flash she went to the kitchen and came back with some spray cleaner. Then proceeded to throw a tea towel over my head whilst spraying foam all over my shoulder. Needless to say cameras were going off everywhere

[Baron de Lay]

Nice report Malcolm.

Loved the bit about the Spanish girl with the Yorkshire accent. We had a Spanish friend, now sadly no longer with us, who spoke English in a broad Glaswegan accent after living for many years in Scotland. When we first met him we couldn't work out whether he was a Scotsman who'd spent years in Spain, or the other way round.

[Jonsey]

Originally Posted by MalcolmS

Came back from Pollença on Sunday and been meaning to post a trip report but the weather’s been too good to stay inside at the computer. Raining today though.

Really informative Trip Report, Malcolm.
My wife and I were there at the same time, arriving on May 31st, and came back last Saturday. We, also, had never visited so early in the season, and were quite surprised as to how quiet everywhere was, particularly the first week. Mind you, the first couple of evenings were pretty nippy – after that the ‘heatwave’ arrived, only to subside yesterday, I believe.
Like Malcolm, we have been regularly visiting Pollenca for many years now, and have our own favorite restaurants/bars etc. Every holiday for the last 10 years, our two girls have always insisted on eating out the first evening at Ca’n Olesa, in the square. Why change a habit? I think we will next year. I opted for a calzone pizza. It was very mediocre, contained a raw egg, and served on a cold plate. After having a beautiful sea bass meal last year my wife opted for the same again this time around. Although the fish was fine all the accompanying pots/veg were luke warm and the plate stone cold! Mmmnn! I had noticed that Alex, the manager, was absent for the whole of the first week, so this may have been one of the reasons for our below average meal.
A couple of days later, whilst having a cooling lunchtime beer (or two) at my favorite bar, Ca’n Moixet, I thought we’d try out Numero Ocho, a few metres away. I’m glad we decided to book a table as it was packed that evening – as was the case every evening from what I could see. It’s been running for 6 years now but we’d never visited. Not as expensive as Il Giardino (also in the square), but probably a far more varied menu. The food was excellent, as was the service. We both opted for the Chicken Curry. However, when you see ‘chicken curry’ on the menu you automatically assume that it’s going to be of the Indian variety? The description sounded as if this was going to be the case, but, unfortunately for my wife, it turned out to be the equivalent of a Green Thai Curry (main ingredient = lemon grass – she hates lemon grass!!!).
We also visited Ca’n Teresa (yes you’ve guessed it, it’s in the square!). Some friends recommended it having visited it several times last year. Again, I booked in advance, and was pleased I did so. I opted for lamb – delicious and tender, I’ve never seen so much meat on the bone before! Because of their location in the square all the restaurants do become very busy in the evening, as this is the main centre of attraction in the town. Not only can you have superb meals you get a free dose of ‘people watching’ thrown in, too!
Away from the square, though, is another favorite, La Trencadora. Mainly known for its pizzas, they do have a variety of other dishes, too. We visited twice, having to sit inside on one occasion. Although perfectly OK inside it’s a table on the outside terrace that really appeals – so picturesque.
Our holidays in the past have always coincided with our youngest daughter’s birthday. As a treat we always ended up going to Il Giardino’s , next door to Ca’n Olesa, at the bottom of the steps in the square. Expensive? Yes. Food always has been superb. Ideal restaurant for that special meal? Perhaps. Up until three years ago this restaurant was run by Hugo and Sonia, and it ran like clock work. You always got a warm welcome whether they remembered you or not. However, times are changing. The current proprieter, who’s been working there for as long as I can remember, and who’s name I don’t recall, is not of the ‘welcoming’ type. I felt this way last year, thought it may have been a one-off bad experience, and decided to give it a second chance. Sorry, but it’s just not the same as it used to be. He seems to give all his un-dividing attention to the customers he feels have money to spend.
However, all is not lost for our next visit to Pollenca. Luckily, we were still on holiday when I read MalcolmS’s wonderful report on my iPad. A restaurant that has always appealed, and recommended, was the Cantonet. Whether it’s because it’s away from my ‘square’, I don’t know, but one thing is for sure, we will be back! What a delightful place. Beautiful setting, great food and very friendly, welcoming staff.

Our last night of the holiday coincided with the Spain v Netherlands World Cup encounter – when the final whistle was blown I knew it was time to go home, as did most of the Spaniards in the square (if you know what I mean!)

[MalcolmS]

So happy to hear we've turned someone else on to Cantonet.

We also like Ca’n Moixet, for a beer or coffee and people watching, although we have also had some (very) late night tapas there too - can't fault it. Often passed Numero Ocho and thought it looked nice - must give it a try next trip.

The night we went to Font del Gall I suggested to my wife we give Trencadora another try but, despite the lovely setting, terrace, waterfall, etc, she said "I can get pizza anywhere"! Weirdly we were out in Stirling back here in Scotland on Saturday night there and met a couple who went to Trencadora the Saturday we arrived in Pollenca! It's a small world.

It's a while since we've had a main meal in any of the restaurants on the square - we did have coffee and cakes in Il Giardino this trip, forgot to mention that - but we met another couple in Font del Gall who were regulars to Pollenca and they're favourite was Il Giardino but felt it had been disappointing this time around...

You've now got me wishing it wasn't until 2015 before we return.