SPRING 2008
We were fortunate enough to spend a week in the Port just after Easter, (1st. Week in April) and for once I managed to keep some details of our eating experiences. Being here earlier in the year than normal, means that for most of the time, everyone is eating inside, which enables you to see some of your favourite establishments in a new light. A completely different atmosphere, but none the worse for that, and without exception, the food was first class on every occasion. In addition to the places we visited that are mentioned below, Ca'an Ferrer was packed every night, although they only had one of the two buildings open,
Corb Mari seemed to be just easing into the season, as did a few of the places around the Square such as El Mojito and Tiberi. Tolos seemed very busy, but isn’t it always but a couple of other favourites that side of the roundabout, eg: Los Faroles and Brisa Marina, again, seemed to be just getting into gear. We walked past Montenegro a few times, perhaps here’s a case of one Indian joint too many. It certainly doesn’t seem as if it will be any busier as a Curry House than it was as a Chinese. Also sad to report that Barquita looks as if it has finally closed for good, after several change of owners and styles in recent years. A great shame, because we had some fine meals here, but it was always going to struggle being situated right next door to Trios.
Unfortunately, much of the town centre resembled a building site, with the area between the former Castinets, and the Tango site immediately opposite, particularly effected. (Cranes and huge lorries everywhere!) To allow two such large building projects at the same time in such close proximity seems madness. There was also some major works taking place outside the Codfather area of the Square and the whole of Pescador Street, (behind the
Hotel Bahia) was a complete no go area due the laying of new drains and renewal of pavements etc. It was here that I chanced apon a very glum looking Pedro outside his place, Bar Coral, which he was still unable to open. You couldn’t actually see much of the restaurant as it was mostly obscured by JCB’s. “They should be finishing today”, he said but without any real conviction.
We were informed by someone who should know, that Bona Cepa has closed for good, and that it’s due to be demolished to make way for yet another
apartment block. After seeing what’s happening on the Castinets site, how long before Pascolino’s goes the same way. It’s only a single storey building on a very convenient corner and is of course “frontline”. Plenty of room there for another five storey block to keep the developers happy.
One set of restaurants do appear to go from strength to strength however The Dakota Tex Mex in the heart of the Square opposite Bony’s, although not full, was more than busy every night and probably had 3 times as many punters in at any one time as any of the other places in the area. Their other two establishments at the start of the Pine Walk also seemed to be doing rather well, the new one (formerly Mestral) particularly so. It’s the sign, (or signs, mounted high above the building that catch the eye) – “The Original American Food”, it proudly informs any would be customers. Still, there’s no avoiding the fact, it was busy all day from mid-morning to late evening, and this is in the first week of April!
No matter, as long as the places we visited this time, plus all the others that one just can’t get round in eight nights continue to flourish, then Puerto Pollensa will for me anyway, always be the culinary highlight of the Mediterranean. All prices quoted for meals by the way include the 7% I.V.A., (which incidentally seems a much better deal than the 17.5% that we have to pay in the UK). Roll on the summer!
EL POSITO
The first night back in the Port, especially this time of year, there really is only one place for dinner. Most people who use this Forum seem to know all about El Posito, it’s certainly one of the most discussed restaurants on here. However, for anyone who isn’t familiar with it, El Posito is situated in a quiet side street behind the main square, and is the type of place one could easily walk past without noticing it, which would be a great shame. I think it’s probably (together with La Fortalesa), the most authentic Mallorquin restaurant in the Port, and appears to be equally popular with locals and tourists alike.
A long, narrow room with two rows of tables, opposite which, is situated the equally long bar, lined with stools, from where people seem to appear from nowhere for a beer and a chat and then disappear again. After the usual friendly greeting from Tony,
one is presented with his menu of daily specials that most people tend to order from. This has always worked very well, for although there is an A La Carte menu, the specials indicate that the food is freshly prepared and they tend to change every day or so. I certainly get the impression that he prefers you to order from this menu, and I have yet to be disappointed. There is normally a choice of 3 or 4 starters, such as red peppers stuffed with seafood, fresh squid or prawns in garlic , homemade soup or tumbet. Mains might include roast suckling pig or shoulder of lamb, and there’s always two or three tempting fish dishes, perhaps baked cod, seafood paella, or some form of John Dory or Sea Bass.
On this, our first night, it was one Tumbet to share, (the portions are all on the large size!) which was so good I could happily become a vegetarian if the food was all like this. Next was roast suckling pig for two, which again was beautifully cooked and presented, and was so substantial that all we had room for after was a coffee each. With a small beer, gin & tonic, bread & olives, still water and a bottle of the quite superb Miquel Oliver Ses Ferritges 04, (15.50 euros) the total cost was 61.00 euros.
In fact the whole meal was so good, we returned later in the week with our good friends, Senor Ken and Lady Pollenca, and an equally good time was had by all. On this occasion we had a bottle of Cava as an aperitif, (14.00 euros) and, with the meal, two bottles of a Rioja that Tony enthusiastically recommended, the magnificent Campillo Gran Reserva. (Senor Ken seemed most impressed with this selection!)
The total bill, four starters and main meals, bread, water and coffee, and the wines described above, amounted to 150 euros. This equates to approximately £120-00, or £30-00 a head in old money, even allowing for the current ridiculous exchange rate. I don’t know of many places in the UK where such value could be found.
NEPTUNO
The best, (and probably one of the first) Tapas bars in the Port. The time to visit here is of a lunchtime, particularly if the weather looks a little unsettled. Forget the tables and chairs outside, go inside, squeezing yourself between delivery drivers and off duty waiters and get yourself on to one of the high stools that line the long bar. Try and ignore the ubiquitous large television perched up high in the corner with the sound turned down that nobody is watching, pick up a local paper and peruse the Spanish football results, and pretend you’re a local. This is a 100% genuine Majorcan bar, a small beer costing 1.50 euros, house wine by the glass for 2-20 euros, and a great selection of various small plates of meatballs, peppers, fish, tumbet etc. at about 3-50 euros a time. If you prefer something a little more substantial, the Chef is on hand in the small kitchen at the back of the bar, complete with Hotplate, Pans and Wok. Watching her from the safety of your Bar Stool cooking a Spanish Omelette or frying some fresh prawns in garlic and oil is indeed a treat. The only problem is having the discipline to know when to leave! It’s always dangerous, drinking wine by the glass!